Before and after shots of an exterior siding project. The siding is Ipe. Each board was straight lined on a jig, edge planed and sanded. The siding is fixed on vertical Ipe bearers, giving a floating look. Architectural screws high light the quality and detail in this job.
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Here is an a/v cabinet and t.v surround I made recently . The cabinet is 1 1/2" mdf construction with black high gloss automotive finish. The doors have a real zebrawood laminate finish.
Same goes for the t.v surround. MDF with black automotive finish and zebrawood trim. The finish came out exceptionally well, like a
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
Closets in blue/white laminate
pete@pdwoodworking.com
Monday, February 8, 2010
Closets in wenge laminate with canary yellow drawers


pete@pdwoodworking.com
Saturday, February 6, 2010
Four drawer roasted red oak chest, finished
Here is the chest installed. To get the black colour for the drawer fronts I ebonized the oak. Ebonizing is a technique used by finis
hers over the last couple of centuries to make wood black like ebony. Traditionally, a solution of white vinegar and iron oxide was applied to the oak turning the oak black. This is due to a chemical reaction between the vinegar/rust solution and tannins in the wood. Not all woods can be ebonized, only woods with high a tannin content. This method is a bit hit and miss with varying consistency in colour.
I used a black floor oil rubbed into the roasted red oak. This achieved a deep, jet black finish with a nice lustre. I tried this finish on natural red oak and got no where near the same colouring. Roasting the oak is the trick.
The prints, furnishings and
wardrobes in this room were key elements to why I added colour to the unit. The effect you see on the drawer fronts is called 'liming'. This is another old technique I've borrowed from the past, but with a modern twist. Traditionally, liming involves opening up the porous grain of oak with a brass wire brush. Then you seal the surface with a spirit varnish, noticing that the spirit varnish doesn't fill the opened grain. When dry, a liming paste (usually a beeswax/alabaster mix) is rubbed onto the surface and then ragged off leaving the paste trapped in the open grain and creating a ghostly hue.
I wanted a similar effect but with vivid, pop out colours on a black background. I discovered that the black oil I used for the ebonizing didn't penetrate the opened grain, perfect for liming. I buffed the oil until highly polished a
nd hard, then added the liming paste which I had coloured with tints. (drawer pulls not chosen yet)
I would like to continue this look as a line of kids furniture. Maybe add some bed side units, bunk beds and accents. Of course the photos do not do justice to the colours, they are much brighter in life.
pete@pdwoodworking.com
I used a black floor oil rubbed into the roasted red oak. This achieved a deep, jet black finish with a nice lustre. I tried this finish on natural red oak and got no where near the same colouring. Roasting the oak is the trick.
The prints, furnishings and
I wanted a similar effect but with vivid, pop out colours on a black background. I discovered that the black oil I used for the ebonizing didn't penetrate the opened grain, perfect for liming. I buffed the oil until highly polished a
I would like to continue this look as a line of kids furniture. Maybe add some bed side units, bunk beds and accents. Of course the photos do not do justice to the colours, they are much brighter in life.
pete@pdwoodworking.com
This piece is a four drawer chest in roasted red oak.
This technique involves kiln firing premium red oak. The oak is stacked on sleepers as you would to kiln dry, but the heat is cranked up and the wood is left to cook for a few days. The stack is arranged to allow for consistent and equal roasting so the colour remains constant. If you roast the wood too long it will burn and char, just like badly roasted beef. Once the oak has charred it has lost its character and is unusable.
I made the carcass of 4/4 (1") material to add a bit of strength as the unit is 50" wide. This thickness and the polished marker board back make this a pretty solid piece. All the carcass joins are hand cut through dovetails (haven't done those in a while-you can probably tell!) I have since acquired a very nice dovetail jig (thanks bro) made by Akeda. This will allow me to set and cut the 40 tails and pins in about an hour, not the three days it took by hand! These shots were taken in my shop and are pre finish.
I like the chocolate colour achieved by roasting and will definitely use this technique again even though it is expensive (thanks Shalom @ Reclaim!, Aspen, Co) But the reason I did use the roasted red oak was quite experimental. For the finished article I wanted an ebonized oak finish. Ebonizing is an old school finish where you turn the wood black, like ebony...
pete@pdwoodworking.com
pete@pdwoodworking.com
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